Ivano Ghirardini

Ivano Ghirardini (born 1 May 1953) is an Italian-born French mountaineer.

Photo taken in 1982

He was born in Montefiorino in Emilia-Romagna. He left Italy with his family in 1954 and was naturalized in 1972.

He attended school in Marseille, earning a Baccalaureate in math. He learned to climb in Château-Arnoux-Saint-Auban and at Sisteron.

Mountain guide since 1978.

Content: 1 North Faces - Trilogy 2 K2 3 Aconcagua 4 Reve Ephemere D’Alpiniste, Grandes Jorasses 5 New Routes 6 Mitre Peak

North Faces - Trilogy

In 1975, he made his first solo winter ascent of the north face of the Grandes Jorasses (Le Linceul). In January 1977, he attempted a winter solo ascent of the Matterhorn, but failed due to a storm. However, he was successful on his second attempt in December of the same year.

He solo climbed the Grandes Jorasses again in January 1978 (Croz), and then the north face of Eiger in March 1978.

He thus became the first mountain-climber to climb all three of the Trilogy (north faces of Cervin, Grandes Jorasses, Eiger) in winter alone, in a very classic style, without any assistance.

K2

He attempted K2 twice in 1979, both times having to give up due to stormy conditions. Solo bivouac without oxygene at 8 300m.

Aconcagua

First solo climb of the south wall, in four days, following the French Route-1954 and taking the Messner's variation, reached the summit in January 1981 making this remarkable first.

Reve Éphémère D’Alpiniste, Grandes Jorasses

Ghirardini, 1994, V 5, 6a, A2, 65°, 800m, between pt Margarita and pt Young, ephemeral couloir. The first part was climbed with Slavko Sveticic, then Ghirardini finish in solo the last section.

New Routes

• Aig.Pierre André, Three super "dirictissimes" on East, North and South Face, all ED.
• Aiguille de Saussure, "Vacances d'alpinistes", with Joshua Geetter. Very nice route.
• Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Hard route on NE face, ED, with Joshua Geetter.
• Grandes Jorasses, pt Young, "Cristal Palace", a solo ascent.
• Pointe Durier, Hard new route on SW face, with Franck and Philippe Henry.

Mitre Peak

In 1980, Ghirardini climbed Mitre Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan, again solo. He remains the only mountain-climber to have done so.

Mitre Peak

v • d • e

Ivano ghirardini website in french: [1]